Moldova's success story: Chardonnay

Dear readers, I intend to write monthly articles discussing Moldovan wines. My 18 years of working in the wine trade in England and 7 years coming to Moldova give me some qualifications.

Chardonnay, what is it? Well, it produces the greatest white wines and is arguably the most popular dry white wine in the world today. How to pronounce it? Well, Americans put the accent on the ‘d’ and the English on the ‘c’. Where to buy it? Well, ahhh…..First, what to buy? Californian, French, Australian? Moldovan?

What! I hear you say mentioning the last country.
Well, it is true that Moldova’s chardonnay has arrived on the world stage. The tragedy is that it has taken so long, but like the Phoenix From the Flames, it is emerging.

I ask you to cast a glance - not too far - towards a village 20km from Chisinau called Mereni.
Here a company called Dionisos Mereni has produced a real success story making chardonnay. I have tasted some good chardonnays in Moldova from Hincesti and Cazaiac wineries but at Mereni it is really special. The proof of this came when they entered the 2,000 vintage in the world’s most prestigious wine competition run by I.W.F.S. in London for the past fifteen years. There it won a bronze medal. For all the reasons that make Moldovan wines unique, in the chardonnay class.

To buy this wine in England or America would cost you about 7 or 8 dollars. Fortunately we are lucky enough to find this bargain here in Chisinau, at only 28 lei! Not, 100 lei!!! With the bronze medal the price will go up automatically.

To describe the taste and style is to describe what is special about modern Moldovan wines. The first thing you notice is the natural taste. Too often in England I have felt ill drinking technology wines with too many chemicals. Secondly is its wonderful fruitiness, which often is lacking in French chardonnays. This makes it a pleasure to drink, with or without food on any occasion. Finally, unlike new world wines from California and Australia, Moldovan wines are not too alcoholic, usually 12°.

Ultimately I think of Hugh Johnson, the world’s leading wine writer. He describes the best wines as those you want to savor, right to the end of a bottle and still feel fantastic!!! This I felt drinking Dionisos Mereni’s chardonnay, although my Moldovan wife stopped me after the second glass.

I also recalled a character from Somerset Maugham’s “The Hotus Eaters”, where he is drinking wine on the Island of Capri, on a summer night, overlooking sea and mountains, and realizing just how beautiful life can be. Such were my feelings after only 2 glasses of Mereni chardonnay.

Moldovans should be proud of their wines and one day people will speak about them in the same breath as California and Australia.
France is another story!!!

By P.A. Quick